View source for Robert I. Murray

Robert I. Murray was born

He married Elizabeth Colden, [daughter of Cadwallader Colden, jr.]

Children:
Robert Lindley Murray, b. 9 November, 1825

==Family==
'''Robert Murray''' (1721–1786), a prominent merchant, was born in County Armagh, Ireland, arriving with his father in Pennsylvania in 1732. Originally a Presbyterian, he became a Quaker after marrying Mary Lindley, daughter of a Quaker politician, in Pennsylvania in 1744. The couple arrived in New York City in 1753 after a short residence in North Carolina. The Murray Hill neighborhood of Manhattan derives its name from the Murray family, whose business interests were mainly concerned with shipping and overseas trade.

Robert quickly established himself and about 1762 rented land from the city for a great house and farm, which Robert called Inclenberg, Dutch for beautiful hill. The total area was just over 29 acres (117,000 m2). In today's terms, the farm began a few feet (metres) south of 33rd Street and extended north to the middle of the block between 38th and 39th Street. At the southern end, the plot was rather narrow but at the northern end it went from approximately Lexington Avenue to a spot between Madison and Fifth Avenues. The great house was built on a since-leveled hill at what is today Park Avenue and 36th Street.

His eldest child, Lindley Murray (1745–1826) was perhaps the most illustrious member of the family. An author of school textbooks, he was the largest-selling author in the world in the first half of the 19th century. Raised in New York City, Lindley was forced to move out of the country as a loyalist after the American Revolution, settling in York, England. He sold some 20 million books, including about 16 million in the United States and four million in Britain. His best-known title was his "English Reader," which Abraham Lincoln called the finest book ever put in the hands of an American youth.

*A [[Daughters of the American Revolution|DAR]] plaque on 37th Street at Park Avenue in Manhattan describes the Murray family and the estate. 

Mrs. Robert Murray (Mary Lindley Murray) is credited with delaying William Howe and his army during General Washington's retreat from New York in 1776. As the story goes, Mrs. Robert Murray invited the group to tea at her mansion, Inclenberg, and, through feminine wiles, and her husband's prominence among the Tory party, succeeded in delaying the British troops for a period sufficient to allow a successful American retreat.

==Under His Wings==

UNDER HIS WINGS; A SKETCH OF THE LIFE; ROBERT LINDLEY MURRAY. 

<blockquote>Happy the souls to Jesus joined, 

And saved by grace alone; 
Walking in all his ways, they find 

Their heaven on earth begun. 
The church triumphant in thy love, 

Their mighty joys we know ; 
They sing the Lamb in hymns above, 

And we in hymns below." </blockquote>



NEW YORK: ANSON D. F. RANDOLPH & COMPANY, 770 BROADWAY. COPYRIGHT, l876

TO 

THE CHILDREN OF HIS LOVE, FOR WHOM HIS PRAYERS ASCENDED WITH EARNESTNESS AND FAITH, this book is dedicated; WITH THE DESIRE, THAT THEY MAY KNOW THE GOD OF THEIR FATHER, AND REDEEMED BY THE BLOOD OF THE LAMB, MAY SERVE HIM WITH A PERFECT HEART AND A WILLING MIND, AND FIND IN LIFE, AND IN DEATH, A PERFECT SHELTER "UNDER HIS WINGS." 

CHAPTER I. 

/^vNE life, only one ; — and this of itself nothing, 
^^^ because lost in Christ. Its story can only be 
of thankfulness because upheld and sanctified in Him ; 
and its narrative has no interest to others, except as 
it gives expression to the " old, old story " of His 
exceeding love ; and yet it has its grandeur, because 
it portrays the life of one kept by the power of God. 
And this, if true to itself, would be the account of 
one early called by the Lord, who in simple-hearted 
dedication consecrated himself in loving allegiance 
to the Master, and manifested during his life the pic- 
ture of the Christian gentleman. 

In joy and in sorrow, an all-sufficient Saviour was 
ever near; and leaning on Him, he realized in a 
remarkable degree the fulfilment of the promise, 
" Thou wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is 
staid on Thee, because he trusteth in Thee/' 

" Safe in the arms of Jesus,'' 

He passed through life's' pilgrimage, and now from 
" over the jasper sea," comes with double force to 

I* 



IO UNDER HIS WINGS. 

those still on this side of the river, the lines he loved 
in his humility to repeat : 

" O ! if there 's only one song I can sing, 
When in His beauty I see the great King, 
This shall my song in eternity be, 
O ! what a wonder, that Jesus loves me ! " 

Robert Lindley Murray, son of Robert I. and 
Elizabeth Colden Murray, was born in New York, 
the 9th of nth month, 1825. 

His mother was the great-granddaughter of Cad- 
wallader Colden, the last Colonial Governor of New 
York. His father was a prominent citizen of New 
York, actively interested in the philanthropic efforts 
of the day. 

The following notice of this gentleman appeared in 
one of the city, papers after his decease : 

" He was a man of strongly marked character, his intellect 
clear and vigorous, and his memory astonishing. He belonged 
to a class of men rapidly passing away — men of active 
benevolence, of conservative and firm patriotism, and intelli- 
gent devotion to the real necessities of his fellow-men. His 
loss cannot easily be repaired." 

The old homestead on Murray Hill, where Robert 
I. Murray was born, was the scene of many historic 
events, of which one only 7 will be mentioned. 

After losing the battle of Brooklyn Heights, 
Washington fell back on the country north of Harlem. 


UNDER HIS WINGS. 1 1 

On the 15th of 9th month, 1776, Sir Wm. Howe, the 
Commander-in-Chief of the British forces, with Clin- 
ton and Tryon crossed Kip's Bay and occupied New 
York. Washington not being able to ascertain the 
intentions of the English with regard to the city, had 
dispatched Nathan Hale to find out what they were 
doing on Long Island, giving orders to Putnam, who 
occupied New York with a division of the patriot 
army, to remain where he was until further orders. 
But his videttes coming in with news that the British 
were crossing over, Putnam gave instant orders to 
march north, to rejoin Washington, by the Middle 
Road. Sir William Howe struck the King's Bridge 
Road and was hastening to intercept the flying rebels, 
which he could readily have done as he had some 
time the start of them. 

Where the King's Bridge Road touched the hedges 
of the Murray gardens, stood the mistress of the 
mansion and her young daughters, waiting to welcome 
the gallant general. The lady was well-known to 
Sir William, although her Whig principles were not, 
and her courteous invitation to alight and partake of 
refreshments was received without a suspicion of 
the motive that suggested it. He thanked her 
graciously, but replied that he must hasten in 
pursuit of the rebel Putnam and his men. She 
represented to him the miserable condition of the 
patriot army, and the readiness with which he could 


I2 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

overtake them, especially if fortified by rest and 
refreshment. 

Moved by her representations, and secure of over- 
taking the demoralized army, the Englishman could 
no longer resist the offer of the ladies' good cheer, 
and with his generals and staff dismounted, while 
Putnam stealthily reached McComb's Dam by the 
Bloomingdale Road, only wondering what had be- 
come of his enemy, and with no confidence in his safety 
from a surprise, until he saw the white tents of Washington's encampment. General Howe, when too late, 
discovered his mistake, but never questioned the 
intentions of the lady whose hospitality had lost for 
him a sure victory, and saved to the cause she loved 
one of its noblest officers. 

Robert Murray imported one of the first carriages 
or coaches used in New York. The citizens were 
much averse to this innovation, and spoke of it openly 
as an evidence of aristocratic pride. To allay this 
feeling, he always called it his " leathern conveniency." 

This gentleman dying in 1786, left two sons, Lindley 
Murray, the grammarian, who married, and afterwards 
settled in England, and John Murray, Jr., the grand- 
father of the subject of this memoir. The latter 
married Catharine Bowne, a descendant of John 
Bowne, one of the original settlers of Long Island. 
This gentleman's life and experience influenced in a 
considerable degree the future policy of the country 


UNDER HIS WINGS. 1 3 

in regard to religious freedom. He had joined the 
society of Friends or Quakers, and in consequence 
fell under the displeasure of the authorities. He was 
arrested by the " Scout" with a company of armed 
men, and cast into a loathsome dungeon in New 
Amsterdam, where "he was kept very long and 
well-nigh famished to death," his family being for- 
bidden to visit him. The Governor finding the 
punishment ineffectual to reduce the prisoner to sub- 
mission, determined to enforce the threat of banish- 
ment. He was accordingly placed on board a Dutch 
vessel and conveyed to Holland. Here he prepared 
an appeal to the Home Government which adminis- 
tered a stern rebuke to Governor Stuyvesant. 

In 1663 John Bowne returned to America, bearing 
this memorable letter from the Dutch authorities 
re-establishing tolerance in religious opinions : " The 
consciences of men ought to be free and unshackled, 
so long as they continue moderate, peaceable, inoffen- 
sive, and not hostile to government. Such have been 
the maxims of prudence and toleration by which the 
magistrates of this City, Amsterdam, have been gov- 
erned, and the consequences have been that the 
oppressed and persecuted from every country have 
found among us an asylum from distress. Follow in 
the same steps, and you will be blessed." 

The effect of this enlightened policy transmitted 
by the Home Government, was to establish religious 


I 4 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

liberty in the colony, and while New England was 
burning witches, and torturing Quakers, New Nether- 
lands received every one within its limits, of whatever 
creed or name. 

Of John Murray, Jr., so many of whose estimable 
traits were largely inherited by his grandson, it was 
well said by a contemporary, " His delight was to 
remember the forgotten, to attend to the neglected, 
and to visit the forsaken." 

A resident of New York at the present day can 
scarcely realize that the house in Cliff Street in 
which the subject of this memoir was born, was at that 
time in the pleasantest part of the city. Filled with 
home-like residences, whose inmates lived on terms 
of social freedom, the claims of business had not 
then turned the lower part of New York into a 
great mart for trade. Here the infancy of Robert 
Lindley Murray was spent, and until he was three 
years old, no cloud darkened his life. Then a sad 
change came suddenly upon the family : two of 
the children were seized with a malignant fever, and 
died from its effects. The mother, overcome with 
grief and watching, fell a victim to the same disease, 
and the three were buried in one grave. The little 
boy so early deprived of a mother's watchfulness, 
was tenderly cared for, and when he was five years 
of age, her place was supplied to him by the mar- 
riage of his father to Hannah Shot well, of New 



UNDER HIS WINGS. I 5 

York. He never knew what it was to miss a 
mother's tenderness, and the tie existing between 
step-mother and son was equally strong on the part 
of both. She watched over his boyhood and youth 
with loving fondness, and in return, it was his delight 
in manhood to minister to her comfort and smooth 
her path in her declining years. 

As a child he was very attractive ; his flaxen hair 
hung in long curls, while his clear complexion and 
soft blue eyes, with the winning smile which seldom 
left his faee, formed a pleasing picture. His disposi- 
tion was so gentle and amiable that even in childhood 
his mother never heard him speak an unkind word 
to his brother, or knew of any quarrel between them. 
Yet this was not in consequence of a sluggish dispo- 
sition ; for no one was more ready for boyish sports, 
or more unwearied in their pursuit. Naturally fear- 
less and daring, he was among the first to join in any 
enterprise which might be suggested, while the un- 
wearied energy which distinguished his character in 
after life, found vent in athletic sports and games. 

One incident in his child life shows his disposi- 
tion. He had stopped his hoop to watch the men 
excavating a cellar for a large house near his father's, 
watching eagerly the horses and carts, as load after 
load of gravel was taken away. One of the drivers 
disposed to tease the boy, threw some of the sand 
upon him every time he passed. At first the little 



x 6 under his wings. 

fellow brushed it away, but the repeated offence 
became troublesome, — what could be done? He was 
interested in the scene, and did not like to leave, but 
this sand bath w T as very annoying. 

At last a bright idea occurred to him, and running 
into the house, he begged his mother to give him 
some pears. A basket full of choice ones had been 
sent to his father, and noticing his eagerness, she 
gave him two. Feeling some curiosity to know what 
he wanted to do with them, she looked from the 
window to watch his actions. 

He waited quietly till his tormentor came near, 
then running up to him, put the pears in his hand, 
and went back to his hoop. The man looked as- 
tonished, but it is hardly necessary to add, threw no 
more sand on the little peacemaker. In the Spring ot 
1838, he entered Haverford College, in Pennsylvania, 
and there, as in his other schools, he soon made 
warm friends. 

Winning and attractiye in his demeanor and 
friendly to all, still his character was so pure and 
simple, that his intimate associates were always of the 
best class. He seemed to have no affinity for evil, 
and schemes for deceiving or disturbing the teachers 
found no abettor in him. His progress in his studies 
was commendable, his order list unsullied, and the 
time of his sojourn there was a season of enjoyment 
to his teachers and himself. 



UNDER HIS WINGS. \y 

But his constitution was not vigorous, and the 
close application to study brought on such an aggra- 
vated form of dyspepsia, that he was obliged to 
return home in the Fall of 1840, and the phyicians 
forbade his resuming Iris studies. Country life was 
prescribed, and he spent the next year at Colden- 
ham, the old home of the family, where one of his 
sisters then resided. 

Refreshed and strengthened by the pure air, and 
the quiet of a rural life, the distressing symptoms 
were removed, though for two or three years he was 
unable to engage in any mercantile pursuit. 

During this period 

" Life went a Maying, 
With Nature, Hope, and Poesy.'' 

And in the enjoyment of his books, and agreeable 
associates, his bark drifted easily along life's stream. 

His own letters give a picture of his life at this 
time. 

7 mo.) 30, 1843. Soon after the receipt of thy last I for- 
sook the " dim and treeless town," and posted direct to Col- 
denham, when father, mother, sister C. and self, started for a 
little visit to our Dutch cousins in Ulster and Dutchess 
/counties. It was an exceedingly pleasant cruise, there is so 
much unsophisticated hospitality among them, and being in 
a private conveyance we made a complete circuit of all our 
friends. When it happened there was nothing particularly 
interesting to me, and the rest were seeing the old folks, I 
would scour the country on horseback. 



1 8 UNDER HIS WINGS. - 

After our excursion, which proved to ail a very pleasant 
one, I am once more quietly ensconced atColdenham, a very 
pleasant place ; situated as it is between two ranges of hills, 
there is almost always a delightful air. 

" As if from Heaven's open gate did flow 
Health and refreshment on the world below." 

The season has been so "exceedingly dry that the garden 
is completely scorched up, " son regne d' un jour est passe," 
yet there are other sources of enjoyment, other "visible 
things," with which the lover of nature may hold com- 
munion. 

The giants of the wood are still capable of rearing their 
heads, and affording a delightful shade, which in this fiery 
July weather is exceedingly acceptable. I often partake of 
it, seated on the ground, and listening to the " wood notes 
wild." I have also perpetrated considerable horseback-rid- 
ing, and yet in all these things I am sadly in need of a com- 
panion ; riding alone is but half a pleasure. I know it has 
been said, 

" There is society where none intrudes," 

but I am not prepared to unite therein. 

ii mo., 1843. We have just established a new society, 
which we dignify by the name of a Literary one, and on ac- 
count of the smallness of our number, a considerable amount 
of service is required from each member. 

We style our body the Fraternal Club ; how does that do 
to begin with ? Something brilliant thou expects from that ! 
But to say the least of us, we are a very affectionate and 
loving band, and all is conducted with harmony and order. 
Perhaps, however, thy opinion of the Band Illustrious will 
be somewhat lessened, when I inform thee that at their elec- 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



19 



tion for officers, -they chose for president thy worthy scrib- 
bler. 

But more of this if I find time and room. I will now 
hasten to give thee the news which is at present uppermost 
in my own mind, which is the safe arrival of our long looked- 
for brother. 

We had been expecting him for some time, when we saw 
an account in the paper of the total wreck of the vessel in 
which we hoped he would arrive, but that the passengers 
were safe at Havana, to sail the next day for New York. 

He made his appearance yesterday afternoon, and says, 
they were wrecked three days after leaving South America. 
He, as well as most of them, lost everything they had on 
board — clothes, and all his valuable papers ; they had but 
one boat, which could only take nine, so after constructing a 
raft, the balance, four, shipped upon that, having first divided 
their scanty supply of provisions and water ; these four have 
not been heard from. 

To add to their trouble, the captain was sick, so that-D. 
officiated in his stead, being pilot and captain at the same 
time. Shaping his course for Honduras, in the middle of 
the night, they crossed a reef of rocks, in imminent danger 
of being dashed to pieces ; indeed it was considered a mira- 
cle that they were not. After being thus tossed about 
in their little boat, nine days and nights, and having ex- 
hausted all their provisions and water, the allowance of 
which had been two biscuits and some gills per diem, they 
at length reached Balize. Here he procured some clothing, 
and started again in the " Charles Hammond " for New 
York. This vessel, too, was wrecked, and they put into 
Havana in distress. After remaining here two or three days, 
they started once more, but again they were driven in all di- 
rections but the right one. About three weeks ago, they were 
within a few miles of the city, then were driven off as far as 



20 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

Montauk Point, tried to get into the Sound, but could not 
succeed; but in a few days found themselves at the Capes of 
the Delaware. Here, however, they were so fortunate as to 
fall in with a pilot-boat, into which D. entered, and was glad 
to be set down at Cape May. This, though not New York, 
was at least " terra firma," and steamboats and railroads 
were preferable to a sailing craft. 

Please excuse this long story; thou knows I generally 
write what is uppermost in my own thoughts, not considering 
what is interesting to my correspondent. But, indeed, a 
letter should be a map of one's own feelings at the time of 
writing, whether it be in a mood for wisdom, for sentiment, 
for gravity, or gaiety, for news or for secrets. 

I cannot unite with the opinion of Dr. Johnson, that " to 
write a letter without affection, without wisdom, without 
gaiety, without news, and without a secret, is doubtless the 
epistolic art." 



CHAPTER II. 

rpHE year 1845 was always marked with a white 
stone in his memory, as in it he realized the 
fulfilment of a promise made by his father, that he 
would some day take him to Europe. With his 
buoyant temperament, and freedom from care, he 
entered fully into the enjoyment of the grand and 
beautiful, and his journal regularly kept, gives a 
graphic picture of the varying scenes which met his 
eye. 

Some extracts will be given as portraying the zest 
of his pleasure, though as he himself said of it in after 
years, " some allowance must be made for many things ; 
my views and sentiments upon some subjects have 
changed since then, and even my present, sober self, 
has been constrained to laugh most heartily at what 
was then penned amid intense excitement and the 
enthusiasm of the moment." 

2d mo., 6, 1845. Embarked this day on board Packet 
Ship St. Nicholas, for Havre, took leave of the last of our 
friends who had accompanied us in the steamboat to the 
Lower Bay at eleven o'clock, and in an hour and a half were 

(21) 



22 UXDER HIS WINGS. 

outside of the Hook, and bidding adieu to our pilot, severing, 
as it seemed, the last link that connected us with home. 

How checkered are the feelings of one departing thus; 
what a strange commingling of hope and joy, of sorrow and 
fear, hope in the prospect of pleasure in store, joy in the 
anticipation thereof; but on the other hand, sorrow and regret, 
yea, agony at parting from our friends, fear too at the abyss 
of time which is to separate them from us, months at least, 
years perhaps, perhaps from some, forever, and it is at a time 
like this that the truth of those lines of E. Barrett may be 
exemplified : " Though the Universe^ be broad, two little 
tears suffice to cover all." 

After a short voyage for a packet ship, they landed 
at Havre on the 26th, and soon proceeded to Paris, 
afterwards through the south of France, and thence 
by steamer to Genoa and Leghorn. 

His youthful enthusiasm breaks forth on reaching 
Italy. 

3d mo., 15th. "O Italy, how beautiful thou art!" 
Scarce had we landed at Leghorn this morning, when the 
clouds began to break, and when we started for Florence 
about two o'clock, a bright sun made glad our hearts, so that 
I was in a measure enabled to realize that a land rich in 
intellectual pleasure was before me, and as our voiture jogged 
steadily onward, towards evening I gazed with delight upon 
a beautiful sunset, at the " gorgeous drapery " flung around 
the departing monarch, and watched with rapture till all was 
lost in darkness. I will not say I have not seen sunsets as 
fine at home, in fact it was an American sunset, but it was 
the first I had seen since leaving, and it brought home to 
mind. 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 23 

idth. " Of all the fairest cities of the earth 

None are so fair as Florence." 

" 'Tis the past 
Contending with the present, and in turn 
Each has the mastery." 

Here Galileo studied, here have labored the Raphaels, the 
Buonarottis, the Giottos, the Arnolfas, and from the city and 
its enchanting environs did Dante and Milton draw inspira- 
tion, while its stately palaces and monuments of art justly 
entitle it to the appellation, " la Bella." 

1 7th. Spent most of 'he morning in the Imperial Gallery. 
It is crowded with the gems of art, and it seemed sacrilegious 
to hurry through it as we were obliged to. I was rather 
disappointed in the countenance of the statue, the praises of 
which are sounded to the ends of the earth — the Venus di 
Medici ; it lacked the spiritual expression I had hoped 
to find, nor even did it seem to breathe like the production 
of our own back-woodsman — the lovely Eve of Powers. 

We visited to-day the Church of Santa Croce, principally 
interesting to me from containing the tomb of Michael 
Angelo. The urn is surrounded by three beautiful statues 
— Sculpture, Painting, and Architecture, weeping for their 
departed champion, the whole surmounted by a bust of 
himself. 

Adjoining the Pitti Gallery, is a very extensive museum, in 
one apartment of which I could linger for hours ; this is a 
splendid temple erected to the honor of the Tuscan philoso- 
pher. The room is beautifully adorned, and contains a 
statue of Galileo, while the walls are covered with paintings 
illustrating passages in his life, and the instruments with 
which his discoveries were made, contained in cases ; there 
was, however, one relic which certainly was not to my taste 
— the actual finger preserved in a glass vase. 



24 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

\%th. While the rest of the company were preparing for 
breakfast, I went out to take a last lingering look at the beau- 
tiful bronze doors of the Baptistry, concerning which M. 
Angelo said, " They are worthy to be the gates of paradise," 
and to stand upon the venerated stone upon which the Italian 
bard used to love to sit and muse. It was one of the vases 
or basins in this Baptistry that Dante tells us he broke : 

" One of the stones I broke some years ago 
To save a drowning child ; be this my word 
A seat, the motive of my deed to show." 

I looked for the fragment, but could not find it ; doubtless 
it had been removed. The Duomo, the Baptistry, and the 
Campanile are all together as in Pisa, and form a most 
imposing group. In the Duomo is a beautiful full-length 
portrait of Dante and some fine sculpture ; the tower is 
higher than the one in Pisa, and commands a magnificent 
view of " la bella Firenze " and its lovely environs. 

While father was performing his regular after-breakfast 
routine, I stole another hour for the Imperial Gallery, spend- 
ing it in, to me, the most attractive apartment — the Tribune. 
The Venus improves greatly upon acquaintance, yet there is 
a statue of Apollo in the same room, and from the style, 
apparently executed by the same artist, which in spite of the 
world I could not help admiring as much. After this, went 
to visit the house of Michael Angelo, but I was very much 
disappointed at not being able to gain admission. It con- 
tains several of his works with his instruments and other 
relics in his studio. 

Rome, ^d month, 20th. We have spent thirty-seven hours 
on the way from Florence to Rome — rather a long while to 
occupy the same seat; but the splendid scenery of the 
Appenines, among and on the tops of which we were for the 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



25 



most of the time, fully entertained and delighted us through 
the day, and at night we slept, as much at least as a very 
hard seat and a jolting vehicle would allow. 

The tourist of the present day will smile at the 
thought of a long ride by diligence between Florence 
and Rome, when the distance can now be so comfort- 
ably accomplished by railroad. 

Nothing daunted, however, by the fatigue, an early 
visit was made to St. Peter's, where the ceremonies 
of Holy Week added interest to the venerable pile. 
He says : 

I was utterly bewildered with its immensity and grandeur. 
It is a mass-meeting of magnificence of every kind concen- 
trated under one roof. 

The famous " Miserere " wa's to be performed in the Sistine 
Chapel in the afternoon ; we stood in the crowd for half an 
hour awaiting the opening of the chapel door, which done, 
the mass poured in as fast as the Swiss guard would allow 
them. It was an hour before the service commenced, which, 
however, to me passed quickly, with M. Angelo's Last Judg- 
ment directly before me, and his equally fine frescoes on 
the ceiling above. 

Fifteen candles were burning in a pyramid near the altar, 
representing the prophets and Saviour. Now the choir pout 
forth the mournful notes of the "Tenebrae," so called, as it 
used to be sung at midnight ; this continued for an hour and 
three-quarters, but we were rivetted to the spot ; the candles 
one by one were put out, and finally the last one extinguish- 
ed — suddenly the " Miserere " commenced ; it was a sweet, 
clear, and thrilling harmony, and all were breathless while it 
lasted for half an hour. It had kept us standing four hours 



2 6 UNDER HIS V/INGS. 

and a half, which, for those who had already been so the 
rest of the day, and without rest the two preceding nights, 
was no inconsiderable thing, yet in my delight I forgot it 
all, and went home rejoiced that I had been there. 

21st. Longing as I have done ever since we have been 
in Rome to gaze upon the monuments of her ancient gran- 
deur, I could delay no longer, but have visited the Palace 
of the Caesars, and the grand Coliseum. 

" The gladiator's blood)' circus stands 
A noble wreck in ruinous perfection." 

And is now consecrated, has altars erected, and a cross in 
the centre, to kiss which " absolves the sins of an hundred 
days." 

It was a glorious night, the nearly full moon shone down 
in unclouded brilliancy, and I proposed a ramble among the 
ruins ; its mellow light conceals defects, and reveals only 
beauties ; it " softens down the hoar austerity of rugged 
desolation," and fills up the " gaps of time ; " it veils the 
upturned earth of modern excavations, and fits the mind for 
undisturbed reflection. 

We went first to the Coliseum, and what was my surprise 
to find it enlivened with upwards of an hundred visitors. I 
did not know there was so much romance in the world. We 
walked along the Appian Way under the Arch of Titus, 
passed the Palace of the Caesars, the Temple of Concord, of 
Fortune and of Antoninus, through the Forum, and across the 
Capitoline hill I stretched my historical knowledge to its 
utmost tension to people them with the beings, and throng 
them with the attributes of the past. 

29M. This day has been delightfully occupied in an excur- 
sion to Tivoli. The road, for the first ten or twelves miles, has 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 2 J 

little of interest, and I amused myself in watching the peasan- 
try in their picturesque dresses ; and the donkeys, upon which 
they pile such immense masses of fodder, as almost completely 
to conceal the animal from view, and make them resemble 
moving hay-stacks. We soon, however, came in sight of 
the Lago de Tartare, which we stopped to examine ; the 
water of the lake is of a milky-white color, and tartarises 
grass, and all vegetable matter with which it comes in con- 
tact, so that the ground around it is a curious mass of petre- 
faction, the air too smells strongly of sulphur, and the 
whole country for miles around talks of volcanoes. We spent 
an hour or two roaming over Adrian's Villa, which must have 
been a wonderful place, as within its confines are the ruins 
of palace, temples, barracks, libraries, circuses, theatres, and 
even a heaven and a hell, for the summer accommodation 
of the luxurious Romans. 

Tivoli is built upon a mass of petrefaction ; the conse- 
quence is, grottoes, caves, and caverns abound in the most 
romantic perfection. The river Anie runs actually under 
the town, and rushes down the precipice in innumerable 
cascades, the principal of which pours thundering down into 
the Grotto of Neptune, through which it passes, and all unite 
beyond ; directly over this, perched finely on the summit of a 
rock, is the beautiful little temple of Vesta, round which, 
like incense, the spray from the falls arises. Facing this and 
in the most romantic part of the town, and most inspiring 
of places the guide pointed out, what I fain would have 
believed was the abode of Horace. The guide-book, how- 
ever, located the poet ten miles off, giving Sallust the 
honor of inhabiting the place in question. 

4 mo., $th. The greater part of the last three days have 
been spent in the diligence between Rome and Naples, a dis- 
tance which should have been accomplished in thirty hours. 



28 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

But then we had the Mediterranean singing us to sleep 
with its roar on the one hand, and on the other the wild 
haunts of Fra Diavolo, "fit fabric" for a " vision's base.'' 
And now in Naples, we have letters from home which 
afforded ample occupation for the remainder of the day. 

6th. We have had a delightful excursion to-day in the 
bay of Naples, and to the island of Capri ; the steamboat 
following the land, we had an excellent view of the beautiful 
banks and of Vesuvius, continually pouring forth volumes of 
smoke, and surrounded by numerous villages and towns, as 
if the inhabitants were in love with danger. The steamboat 
stopped first off the far side of the island to give us an oppor- 
tunity of visiting the Grottono Azuro, or Blue Cave, with 
which we were delighted ; the entrance is so small as scarcely 
to admit a row-boat, upon the bottom of which it was neces- 
sary to sit. From the smallness of the aperture, it would 
be reasonable to suppose the cave would be dark ; what then 
was our surprise to find ourselves immediately ushered into a 
splendid stalactite grotto, very large and lofty, and in which 
all is light. The water is of the richest indigo blue, and so per- 
fectly transparent, that fish could be seen sporting far below 
the surface, and seems to act like a prism, and a mirror in 
refracting and reflecting the rays into all parts of the cavern, 
and giving to the whole interior the same beautiful blue ap- 
pearance, of the effect of all which no description can give 
an adequate idea. Thence we landed upon the other 
side of the island, and ascended to the lofty summit to enjoy 
a splendid view of the bay, to throw stones into the Medi- 
terranean, and to explore the ruins of the palace and theatre 
of Tiberius Caesar. It was after dark when we reached Ve- 
suvius, and the smoke was mingled with flame, every mo- 
ment bursting forth in a blaze, and then twinkling as a star 
in the distance. 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 2 g 

From Naples they left by steamer for the East, 
and enjoyed the sail on the Mediterranean among 
the " Isles of Greece." 

Syra, 4 mo., 22nd. All the islands of the Archipelago 
appear to be excessively barren, far better fitted " to 
cradle upon a rock" their ancient race of " gods and god- 
like men," than to minister to the luxury of effeminate 
moderns. The men are for the most part fine-looking 
fellows, though among the women it would be difficult for 
sculptor to find a model for another Medicean Venus. 
There is a good deal of the Turk about the dresses of the 
men ; their wide-flowing breeches so much resemble frocks 
as to render it almost difficult to distinguish the women 
from them. Syra is the point of rendezvous and departure 
for all the Mediterranean steamers, and only as such is a 
place of note ; the town presents a curious appearance, 
being for the most part built upon a steep conical hill, sur- 
mounted on the extreme apex by a cathedral. 

How long soever we may be doomed to spend here, from 
appearances the outer man will be comfortably cared for, 
in a place where we had been given to expect that we 
should find nowhere to lay our heads. We are located in a 
sociable little inn, of which the landlord is cook, caterer, and 
conductor at one and the same time, where everything, 
though plain and simple, is far neater than in Italy, and 
where one can discover what he is eating at dinner without 
cross-questioning the waiter. 

2^th. Hardly an hour after writing the above, we had 
started on our way to Athens, having when out on a stroll 
in the evening, accidently fallen in with the master of a 
little craft who was upon the point of starting in the 
desired direction and whom we immediately engaged. We 



30 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

have just reached Athens this afternoon, with rough seas, 
head winds and calms, having had a tedious passage ; it was, 
moreover, from beginning to end a season of the most ex- 
quisite suffering ; the cabin, which was reserved for our 
party of five, was about five feet long, four broad, and two 
and a half high ; upon the floor was spread a blanket upon 
which to repose at night ; all this would have done very well, 
but unluckily the place was pre-occupied by swarms of 
cockroaches, fleas, and bed-bugs ; the very smell arising 
from which was perfectly overpowering, while the gnawing 
and stinging of the voracious monsters in miniature, almost 
drove me to distraction ; on the other hand to remain on 
deck, was, if possible, worse ; not only were the nights exces- 
sively cold, but the little deck was literally piled with 
pieces of mortality, in the shape of men, women, and chil- 
dren, occupying almost every inch of space, and abounding 
too with vermin of by no means a more inviting kind. 
Three nights on board under such circumstances ; — verily one 
needs not to brush up poetical and historical reminiscences 
to perpetuate the memory of such a cruise among the 
" Isles of Greece," and upon the waters of ^Egeian Sea. 
The harbor of the Piraeus is well protected, and remains of 
ancient fortifications may yet be traced. 

26th. Immediately after breakfast we went to visit the 
Acropolis ; the rock itself is situated in the midst of ancient 
and directly upon the borders of modern Athens, towering 
into the air as high as any of the surrounding hills. After 
ascending and passing through the entrance, the first object 
that strikes the eye is the Propylaea, a kind of immense ves- 
tibule leading to the Parthenon. To the right of this, and 
perched upon a lofty crag, is a beautiful little temple, almost 
perfect, built and dedicated to " Victory," after the battle of 
Marathon. Passing now through the Propylaea, the grand 



UXDER HIS WINGS. 3 1 

and majestic Parthenon bursts suddenly upon the view ; 
this is situated upon the very summit of the Acropolis, and 
commands a magnificent view of the ^Egeian Sea, the Gulf 
of Salamis, and the whole plain of Athens. Like Marius 
among the ruins of Carthage, I sat me down to contem- 
plate. 

The Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, is immediately adjacent 
to the Acropolis; I ascended the steps hewn out of the 
solid rock and stood upon the summit ; here it was that the 
Athenian judges sat, in the dark, in order to avoid being in- 
fluenced by acquaintance with the accused or accuser ; here 
Socrates received his sentence, and upon this very spot 
stood the great Apostle of the Gentiles when he proclaimed 
to the wondering Athenians the truth of that " unknown 
God " whom u ignorantly they worshipped." 

28M. To-day to Marathon. Leaving father at home with 
his friend Hill, I started for the excursion early in the morn- 
ing, one of a party of eight ; on leaving Athens the road 
passes in the immediate vicinity of Plato's academic grove, 
and for some distance along the ruins of the river Elissus. 
Two hours ride brought us to the foot of Mount Pentelicon, 
the source of the renowned Pentelic marble ; here we dis- 
mounted, and ascended for nearly two hours, viewing the 
quarries of the ancient and modern Greeks, and exploring a 
most beautiful and extensive grotto. 

The mountain is 350 feet high, and most of the party having 
reached a lofty eminence declined proceeding further. I, 
however, pushed on till I reached the uppermost crag, where 
a glorious view burst upon the sight. Not far to the south 
is Mount Hymettus, celebrated for its honey, which is daily 
upon our table ; further to the right the plain of Attica ; 
Athens with her towering Acropolis in the distance, with 
the sea and island of Aegina, and " thy glorious gulf, uncon- 



32 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



quered Salamis." To the north and east the island-studded 
sea, stretching as far as the eye can reach, with the pic- 
turesque Negropont close at hand, while directly beneath 
my feet lay unrolled a beauteous plain, which a fool would 
not need to be informed was gray old Marathon. 

" The battle-field where Persia's victim horde 
First bowed beneath the brunt of Hella's sword." 

The country is wretchedly miserable, hardly a trace of 
cultivation anywhere to be seen ; in fact, except its ruins, its 
views, and its places of political and historical interest, one is 
apt to be disappointed in Greece. The people are sadly 
degenerated, a race of rascals and of knaves ; their songs are 
harsh, monotonous, discordant ; their women have lost their 
wonted beauty ; and their country even has sunk into decay. 
It is Ancient Greece one has pictured in his fancy, and the 
modern cannot realize his dream. " 'Tis Greece, but living 
Greece no more." 

29//Z. Breakfasted this morning with our friends, Hill. 
They mentioned having raised in their garden bunches of 
grapes two feet and a half long, and weighing seven pounds, 
which amply demonstrated that the soil is not to blame, but 
that if the people would but arouse from their lethargy, the 
country might now be productive. 

5 mo., 1st. On rising this morning, found ourselves 
off Scio, the most beautiful of the isles we have yet seen, its 
valleys rich with the olive and mastic trees, and the hills 
cultivated to the very top, besides Homer gives it celebrity, 
" the blind old bard of Scio's rocky isle." By two o'clock 
we reached Smyrna. 

The town of Smyrna appears very well from the water 
sloping gently toward, the shore and stretching a couple of 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 33 

miles along the coast, with the tall slender minarets of its innu- 
merable mosques towering high above every other thing. On 
entering the city, however, the scene is changed, every street 
being excessively narrow, crowded, and dirty, still the appear- 
ance of everything around him is to a stranger new and 
curious. The houses and shops are mostly one story high, 
the extending roofs of the dwelling-houses on opposite sides 
lapping over one another, while the streets of the bazaars 
are protected from the scorching rays of the sun by a semi- 
transparent roofing thrown from side to side. The shops are 
altogether open in front, the goods disposed upon the floor, 
upon which the cross-legged proprietor sits with pipe in 
mouth, perfectly still as if communing with his own thoughts 
and little desirous of being disturbed by customers. 

I stood in the midst of the ancient church of Smyrna — 
one of the seven. This place, once occupied by the early 
Christians, is now transformed into a cow-stable. 

2d. The streets of Smyrna are so narrow that not a vehicle 
of any description is seen, all burdens being borne by men, 
camels, and donkeys ; these latter are not as generally repre- 
sented, but smart and tractable, and if well-cared for would 
be tolerably handsome animals. Finding some ready-har- 
nessed in the street, we mounted, and drove a little out-of- 
town to the Caravan bridge, a kind of promenade, or rather 
lounging place. It was, however, the wrong time of day and 
almost deserted ; hence to the slave market, where we found 
no " beautiful Circassians," but Africans only, apparently con- 
tented with their lot, but all of them far blacker negroes 
than we see at home. 

\th. " Constantinople in sight," cut short my slumber. I 
tumbled out of my berth, and hurried up on deck ; there the 
eastern city of the seven hills, lay stretched before us with 



34 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

her majestic domes and slender minarets towering to the 
skies. The city has a beautiful appearance from the water, 
with the lovely Seraglio gardens directly in front of the 
harbor as you enter. Constantinople, as you see it at a 
distance on the water, and Constantinople as you behold 
it when wandering through its streets, are altogether different 
things ; the streets partake largely of the barbarity of the 
people, excessively narrow and filthy, without sidewalks, and 
paved with stones rough and sharp enough to wear the 
fraction of an inch from one's stature by a half-day's walk 
upon them ; still the variety of costume in the throng that 
crowds them, and the rich and curious appearance of the 
innumerable shops, form a picture altogether new and pleas- 
ing. The dress of the Turks, however, I cannot admire, 
while that of the Greeks is extremely beautiful. 

6th. We joined the American ambassador at an early 
hour this morning, pursuant to a previous invitation from 
him, for an expedition among the beauties of the Bosphorus, 
the Hudson of the eastern world ; several ladies were of the 
party, the whole number consisting of about twenty, it being, 
of course, an entirely American affair and no others than 
Americans present. A painter only could describe such 
a landscape as this ; but the principal features were, look- 
ing toward the east, the black sheet of the Euxine dotted 
with innumerable sails, and stretching as far as the eye could 
reach, with the ruins of an old Venetian castle upon its 
banks, situated in the very place, than which the genius of 
the picturesque itself would not have imagined a better ; 
toward the west a full - length portrait of the meander- 
ing Bosphorus, its picturesque promontories and beautiful 
bays, and bearing upon its bosom twice an hundred sails, with 
the Sea of Marmora and snow-capped Olympus in the dis- 
tance ; directly beneath our feet, upon the north, lay that 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



35 



splendid Bosphorus again, and behind to the south, a vale of 
the richest verdure. After feasting upon this intellectual 
meal, we were summoned to dinner, — a strange affair it seemed 
for a party of Yankees to be holding a picnic five thousand 
miles from home ; but even thus it was, and thanks to the 
hospitality of our American ambassador, never did Ameri- 
cans enjoy themselves better. Soon after dinner it was time 
to depart ; so cutting a Daphne cane from the furthest point 
from home that I have ever been, and ever expect to be, upon 
the Asiatic corner of the Bosphorus and Euxine Sea, again 
mounted our Araba, jolted down the mountain, passed 
through the lovely valley, stepped from Asia into a caique 
and retraced our way along the Bosphorus, enjoying another 
succession of enchanting views, among which one might 
revel for a life. When about half way down I enjoyed a 
magnificent sunset, — the monarch of the day departing, 

" Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright, 
But one unclouded blaze of living light," 

reflecting its glory upon the water, and gilding the green 
wave " which trembled as it glowed." Now turning into 
the city's gorgeous bay, the shades of evening or of twilight 
added to the witchery of the scene, and again I trod on 
shore, after having spent a day, which shall be a white stone 
in my calendar, a time ever to be remembered as among the 
loveliest periods of enjoyment that have ever cast their halo 
around my path. 

The extreme eastern point was now reached, and 
the travellers again embarked on the Mediterranean, 
landing at Trieste on the 19th of 5 mo. They visited 
the cave of Adeisburg, and then started by diligence 



3 6 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

for Vienna. After a sojourn of ten days in that de- 
lightful city, they resumed their journey. 

6tk mo., ist. We were off in a carriage at midday for Salz- 
burg, at which place we have arrived this evening. The road is 
a continued series of most magnificent and beautiful scenery, 
where, if Switzerland can be surpassed, we may be tempted 
to remain for life. Verily, this country seems made for trav- 
ellers, and for lovers of the romantic and beautiful ; the roads 
wind around, and pass over mountains of the wildest magnifi- 
cence, now following the shores of tranquil lakes embed- 
ded in their midst, now chasing the leaping torrents as they 
thunder along between them, but when the genius of the 
picturesque will allow of the approach of cultivation nothing 
can exceed the smiling exuberance of this beautiful land; 
indeed in this respect it must even be a rival of lovely Italy, 
the garden of the world- The approach to this place, and 
the view of the whole plain of Salzburg, hedged in by snow- 
capped mountains, is strikingly interesting and beautiful. 

13//Z. Once more in the land of the olive and the myrtle, 
the fig-tree and the vine, of pretty faces, with mouths unpol- 
luted by horrid Dutch, and a happy release from the region 
of feather-beds to sleep under. Italia's smiling and exuber- 
ant plains now afford a striking contrast, and not unpleasing 
variety to the overpowering sublimity of the Tyrolean Alps. 

i$th. I am indeed in Venice* the city which, perhaps, of 
all others, I had most desired to see, — Venice the seat of 
poetry, of the arts and of romance, " throned on her hundred 
isles;" the glorious city in the sea, whose waves ebb and flow 
in her streets, washing " the marble of her palaces." I have 
been surprised to find that it is possible to go all over the 
city by land without the assistance of a gondola ; these terra 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 37 

firma streets are, however, very intricate, and upon an ex- 
ceedingly diminutive scale, as I find I can generally reach 
across them, but they are large enough for all necessary pur- 
poses, there being no vehicles, and so far as I can discover, only 
one horse in the whole place. The finest part of the city is 
St. Mark's Place, a large open court, on which face the old 
palace of the Doges, and the great Church of St. Mark, with 
the towering campanile in front. 

16th. Rome and Venice share the glory of containing the 
ashes of Canova, as in the former his hands are entombed, 
while here in the Church of Santa Maria de Trari, a magnifi- 
cent monument is erected over his heart ; it so happened he 
designed it himself, and intended it as a monument to Titian, 
but dying just at the right time, it was appropriated as above, 
though a still more splendid one is now preparing, commem- 
orative of the illustrious painter. 

Explored the room and prisons of the Inquisition, whose 
tales are sad and horrible, and felt almost sick at heart as 
I stood and gazed upon the Bridge of Sighs. The palace, 
like everything else here, is falling to decay, and indeed it 
almost makes one sad to glide quietly and songlessly through 
the watery streets of Venice, to see at every turn her crum- 
bling splendor and her tottering walls. 

30th. The whole of the past two days have been occupied 
in a pilgrimage to the hospice of the Great St. Bernard. 
Leaving the hotel at six in the morning, the first five hours 
are accomplished in a " char-a-banc," or rather in a " char- 
a-cote," a species of vehicle drawn by mules, having the seat 
arranged lengthwise in order to accommodate itself to the nar- 
rowness of the road ; being moreover sans-springs, the poor 
inmates labor under the difficulty of having their breakfasts 
digested long before the dinner time arrives. However, being 



38 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

duly refreshed at a wretched hotel in the wretched little 

hamlet of , the road now becoming impracticable for the 

chars, each of us mounted a mule and proceeded onwards ; 
soon, however, the path emerged into a regular climb up rocky 
steeps, and, for an hour before reaching the convent, passed 
over snow of unknown depth, some of which, doubtless, had 
lain there for centuries, and perhaps the very same that was 
trampled under foot of him who led an army hither en route 
to conquer at Marengo. 

Unluckily for us, though the day at starting had promised 
fairly, soon after taking mules the rain began to descend in 
no very comfortable quantities, changing as we ascended 
into a regular snow-storm, while, being in the midst of 
clouds, we could see but a few paces around or before us. 
Ever and anon too, our mules would sink to the girths in 
the snow, rendering it impossible to proceed upon them, so 
that much of the way was accomplished on foot. By six 
in the evening we were at the convent, cold and wet to the 
skin, but our troubles were soon put an end to by the kind 
hospitality of the "brethren," who piled the wood upon the 
fire, urged a change of raiment upon us, and when suffi- 
ciently revived, invited us to dinner; the fare excellent, 
though plain, a long cold ride upon the back of mules, fur- 
nishing the best of " ragout." Strange it seemed to be there 
in the midst of summer, shivering around a fire, and a furi- 
ous snow-storm raging without, and glad we were to turn in 
at an early hour under an array of blankets, coverlids, etc., 
that would have daunted us in the midst of winter at home. 

In the morning I was up betimes to attend the service of 
the monks in their chapel ; whatever may be said against the 
religion of the Catholics, their faithfulness and devotedness 
to it is certainly praiseworthy, and may, doubtless, be often 
accepted as an offering in faith. These monks perform their 
service for several hours every morning and evening, and, 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



39 



for all I 'know to the contrary, as much more during the day 
and night. This over, and after having partaken again of 
the good-cheer of the brethren I sallied out to look for the 
famous dogs ; they are hardly as large as I expected to find 
them, but are certainly a noble race- Hence to the Morgue, 
or depository of the bodies of travellers who have perished 
in the snow, — a ghastly collection of dry bones, with a dozen 
or two upright skeletons ranged around; but as I was turn- 
ing in disgust from this horrid " Golgotha, 5 ' my eye rested 
upon the really interesting features of one of the figures, the 
anxiety and distress of a mother as she cherishes in her 
bosom her perishing babe, doubtless the very position in 
which they had been found. In the hall of the convent is a 
monument in memory of Napoleon, and in the chapel repose 
the remains of Desaix, whose body, by order of the former, 
was brought from Marengo hither. 

Though the storm had ceased, the clouds still hung around 
us, so .at eight in the morning we commenced our descent, 
without having been able to enjoy the prospect from the 
summit, or the fine view of Mount Blanc which it presents, 
but at least with the satisfaction of having slept in the high- 
est human habitation upon the face of the earth, and about 
eight thousand feet above our fellow-men. 

Luzerne, 6 mo., nth. After enjoying the sail upon the 
lake, we landed at the little town of Weggis, and commenced 
on foot the ascent to the Rhegi culm, from which is " the most 
magnificent view in the world." The road is steep and the 
ascent laborious, but almost every turn reveals some new and 
pleasing prospect. By two o'clock luckily the sun burst 
forth, and the curtain of the clouds arose, unveiling before us 
the magnificent scene ; and such a scene ! verily a whole 
vocabulary of the wildest superlatives would be applied to it 
in vain. Switzerland, from its Dan to its Beersheba, is seen 



40 UNDER HIS WINGS. 

in one grand coup d 'ceil ; from the glacier snows of Gothard 
the eye may wander to the highlands of Germany, resting in 
its course on every alp save one, on fourteen lovely lakes, 
and on every magnificent and lovely portion of this magnifi- 
cent and lovely land. 

23*/. He next revelled in the lovely Rhine, " so 
often and so justly sung by the poets of all nations," 
and then passed on through the quaint pictures of 
home-life displayed in Holland. Bidding farewell to 
" this amphibious Dutch land " with its dykes and 
ditches, the travelers remained for a time in Antwerp 
enjoying the remains of Rubens' genius. Brussels 
came next, and interested him greatly from its 
intrinsic beauty and historic associations. 

2d. But the great lion of Brussels is the memorable field 
of battle, and it has been with the most thrilling interest 
to-day that I have stood upon and explored that '' Grave of 
France, the deadly Waterloo," our guide pointing out the 
exact position of the contending armies, and the most 
interesting points of combat ; he indeed spoke with enthu- 
siasm upon the subject, and, after hearing we were not 
English, mourned the catastrophe of Napoleon, ever and 
anon venting his indignation against poor old Grouchy for 
coming up too late. Yet one can hardly avoid partaking of 
such feelings himself; yes, poor Bonaparte, here it was that 
cruel frisking Fortune deserted thee, " her spoiled, but 
favorite child," and "the greatest nor the worst of men" 
sank to rise no more. But for thirty years the spear hath 
been beaten into the pruning hook, and now far other scenes 
have place ; the peaceful bosom of the plain now " knows no 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 4 1 

ravage save the gentle plough," her undulating surface is 
clothed with grain ripe unto the harvest, and nature still 
pursues her quiet course, 

"As if she took no care 

For what her noblest work had suffered there." 



They remained for some time in England, forming" 
pleasant acquaintances and visiting many places of 
interest. Only one notice will be given of their visit 
to the home of Lindley Murray, the grammarian, who, 
after leaving America, had lived for many years at 
York. 

9 mo., 16th. To-day has been a most deeply interesting 
one to us. Accompanied by our friend Samuel Tuke, we 
visited Holdgate, the residence of our dear uncle and aunt. 
Its present tenants were all absent ; we, however, went in and 
examined it from top to bottom. The house and grounds 
remain very much the same as before the death of their 
venerable inmates, and with the exception of being consider- 
ably smaller, seemed very like the idea I had formed of it 
from the prints. After purloining some small relics in the way 
of pears, we left and visited the grave. Uncle and aunt lay 
side by side, apparently exactly in the centre of the ground, 
with a square mound erected over them. 

10th mo., \th. Went on board the steamer at twelve 
o'clock, very many kind friends being upon the wharf to bid 
us a last farewell. At two we received our mails, and ere 
night, were " dancing in triumph o'er the waters wide." And 
what if the fierce Eolus does unprison the winds and let 
them loose upon us, " scooping the ocean to its briny 



42 



UNDER HIS WINGS. 



springs." I still love the ocean, for it bears me home, and I 
love its roughness '' for the speed it gives." 

And now upon a retrospect of the past nine months, what 
eventful ones have they been to me ; how many " a mountain 
path " have I, during that time, trod ; how many " a varied 
shore" sailed along; how many a clime have visited, " fair 
withal as ever mortal had imagined ; " and with feelings that 
cannot readily be described ; upon how many of the most 
remarkable places of the earth have I stood. I have passed 
through the length of " bonnie France," and revelled amid 
the inexhaustible delights of Italy, that delicious land : 

" The garden of the world, the home 
Of all art ) T ields and nature can decree." 

I have gazed, awe-stricken, into the very crater of Vesuvius, 
and wondering threaded the streets of Pompeii, that " city 
of the dead." I have stood within the coliseum's walls 
" amid the chief relics of mighty Rome," feeling at the time 
my heart run over " with silent worship of the great of old." 
I have hailed with delight Calypso's realms, albeit the fair 
goddess has long ceased to mourn for him " who dared pre- 
fer a mortal bride ; " although " her reign is past, her gentle 
glories gone." 

I have gazed exultingly on Morea's hills, and a pilgrim, 
pensive but unwearied, have worshipped " all that remains of 
thee," " shrine of the mighty," Greece! Though but the 
shadow of thy former self; though but the " sad relic of 
departed worth," yet thy wreck and thy ruin are still graced 
"with an immaculate charm which cannot be effaced." 

I have been where Troy stood once ; I have seen the 
" desert of old Priam's pride," and '* looked on Ida with 
a Trojan's eye." I have joyed to plough through Helle's 
waves, albeit in a most unromantic steamer, and have had a 
tear to drop for thee, poor Leander, and thy Sestian bride. 


UNDER HIS WINGS. 43 

From Marmora's waters I have looked upon old Stam- 
boul, " that sheening far, celestial seemed to be," and have 
stood within her oriental walls. I have revelled among the 
beauties of the enchanting Bosphorus, with a measure of 
Pizzaro's feelings on first coming in sight of the waters of 
the Pacific. I have climbed to the summit of the Giant's 
Mountain, and seen thy sheet, "dark Euxine," unrolled 
beneath my feet. I have been tossed to and fro upon 
" fair (?) Adria's waters," and have bent mine eyes upon 
thee, land of Albania, thou " rugged nurse of savage men." 

I have stood in Venice on the " Bridge of Sighs," and 
with Rogers have hailed the turrets of Verona, breakfasting 
" where Juliet at the mosque saw her loved Montague," 
and strove to drop a tear o'er her tomb. 

I have communed with Nature in her loveliest as well as 
in her wildest mood ; long delighted, have revelled amid 
the immaculate loveliness of Central Germany,- and amid 
the tremendous grandeur of the Alps of the Tyrol. On 
Bernard's rude summit, have helped the monks " to count 
their beads and eat venison," and in one glance sublime, 
have looked from the top of tke Rhegi, upon the whole of 
splendid Switzerland, spread out, as it were, beneath my 
feet. Wondering and delighted, I have gazed upon the hoar 
glaciers of bleak Mt. Blanc, and have seen the precipit- 
ous Jungfrau " rear her never-trodden snow." 

I have sailed upon the bosom of thee, fair Rhine, thou " ex- 
ulting and abounding river," whose banks are wedded to the 
romantic and the marvellous ; have stood upon thy fields of 
blood, " dread Waterloo," where nations combatted to make 
one submit, and with a sort of thrilling horror, have gazed 
upon the awful Golgotha erected in thy midst, where are 
" rider and horse, friend and foe, in one red burial blent ; " 
and last of all, have hailed the white cliffs of our fatherland. 

But now, " once more upon the glad waters of the dark 


UNDER HIS WINGS. 

blue sea," and homeward bound, I can look without regret 
upon Albion's lessening shores, for my face is turned at last 
toward my own dear native land, and after all my wander- 
ings, I have learned more fully than ever to appreciate, that 
there is no country like our country, and " no place like 
home." 

CHAPTER III. 

rpHUS far his joyous life had glided on with very 
little to mar its brightness ; but the time was now 
approaching when the responsibility of living pressed 
upon him, and he realized the necessity of better 
guidance than his own, to enable him to walk as 
becomes a follower of God. 

==Sources==
*Charles Monaghan, ''The Murrays of Murray Hill'' Brooklyn, Urban History Press, 1998
*https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=scyEWD7Eb9wC&hl=en&pg=GBS.PA10

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